Caribbean dancing: Give me that old-time merengue

By Bob Schulman


Hotel staffers show guests how to dance merengue on the beach at Punta Cana. Photo by Christine Loomis.Da-dah da-da-dah, da-dah da-da-dah. You hear that hip-swinging music everywhere in the Dominican Republic. In the airport arrival terminals...in the lobby of your hotel...around the pool...on the powdery beaches...in the discos...even at weddings. It's that Caribbean island's peppy homegrown music, merengue (mah-ren-gay).

Some say the name was taken from meringue, a dessert topping made from whipped egg whites and sugar. “Barcelo Hotels' PR man Leo Salazar jokes, “Maybe it got the name because merengue dancers look like a whirling egg-beater.”

No one knows for sure where the music came from. A number of stories trace its sensual beat and moves back to a brothel in the early 1800s, after the Dominican Republic (the D.R. for short) won its independence from Spain. After that, governments came and went over the years, and some banned the music, but people kept shaking their booties to the sexy rhythms – whether the governments liked it or not.

Likenesses of merengue dancers in the lobby of the Barcelo resort at Bavaro Beach, D.R. Photo by Bob Schulman.Influenced by the Spanish, African and local Taino Indian cultures, the music tells of the fun and tragedy of everyday life. It's usually played – among many variations – with instruments like a  two-sided drum, an accordion, a maraca-like percussion instrument and nowadays often a guitar.

Merengue was always loved by the common people, but for many years it was ignored by the upper classes because it was said to lack “lyrical elegance.”  Translation: Well-off people didn't want to hear about the problems of not-well-off people.

That changed in 1930 when dictator Rafael Leonidas Trujillo became president of the country in a questionable election (in which he registered an improbable 95 percent of the votes).

Running on the theme of “Dios y Trujillo” (God and Trujillo), the ex-general used merengue as a musical backdrop to his election campaign, aimed at getting support from the masses. It worked, and at a party for the elite following his win merengue was the music of the day, thus making it officially acceptable from then on.

You can see the moves of merengue on You Tube Merengue. Also, check out the DVDs of the D.R.'s native superstar, Juan Luis Guerra.Merengue band plays at a wedding ceremony. Photo by Bob Schulman.

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