From beaches to battlefields, up the coast from San Diego
Story and photos by Rich Grant
Editor, www.walkinganddrinkingbeer.com
There's a week's worth of great day trips north of San Diego, all within a drive of an hour or so drive from downtown. You can meander along cliff paths lined with wildflowers, walk barefoot on miles of beaches with pelicans sailing overhead, visit great little towns filled with art galleries, shops and bookstores, tour old missions, sip wine in vineyards, stroll the decks of sailing ships and even march on the hallowed ground of California's biggest battlefield.
La Jolla (lah hoy-ah), just 12 miles north of the airport, is a good place to start. The village is actually part of the city of San Diego, but this upscale town of 40,000 people is a world away in atmosphere. There's a real Mediterranean feel. The town itself is built on a small hill above the sea and has quiet streets lined with a combination of exclusive, upscale shops and restaurants mixed with t-shirt shops and affordable brewpubs.
At the bottom of a steep hill is the cove that has made La Jolla famous. The deep blue water surrounded by a rocky shoreline with cliffs that rise to 300 feet is an incredible sight, especially in the midst of a town this size.
The whole coast here offers great walking opportunities. Follow the sidewalks along the shore heading south, then hop across rocks on a long sandstone shelf with waves crashing and pelicans sailing overhead. Or walk north from the cove above Sunny Jim's Cave on a dirt path along the tops of cliffs covered with wildflowers. The cave's small admission is worth it for the walk on the rickety staircase alone.
The middle of the cove is The Children's Pool, a protected seawall that's been taken over by harbor seals. It's amazing to watch them swim in and waddle up on the sand to sleep. Docents are on hand to give some background.
Up the coast to Del Mar
As beautiful as the cliff walks are in La Jolla, they're better in Del Mar, the next town up the coast. The village is on a busy street and easy to blow by, but stop and poke around. There are some nice shops and a pleasant breakfast stop in Strafford Square.
The chief attraction here is the beach and the cliff walks. You pick up the cliff walk at the village railroad crossing. The cliff path follows the tracks and is lined with fields of purple verbena and wonderful coastal views.
You can walk all the way to Torrey Pines State Park, about 2 miles, and continue up into the park. Hike up the paved road for a mile and a 300-foot elevation gain to the high point. Take in the views, see the famous and rare trees that are only found here and a few other spots, and then descend on the Beach Trail to Flat Rock. From here, it's three miles back to Del Mar along the beach between towering cliffs and pounding surf.
East to Escondido
An hour east of San Diego at the Orfila Vineyards & Winery in Escondido they're still growing grapes on the same dry hills where the Franciscan brothers planted the first grapes in California in the mid-1700s. In the last 10 years, Orfila has won more than 1,300 medals. It's a pretty setting with a gorgeous building and deck overlooking the vineyards. They offer a self-guided tour and tastings.
Nearby is the San Pasqual Battlefield – the bloodiest battle fought in California during the Mexican War. On December 6, 1846, a force of 100 U.S. troops that had come all the way from Kansas clashed with a small army of Californio men. The Californios had long lances that gave them a great advantage over the small swords of the U.S. Cavalry, and they tore through the Americans, killing 22 men. It looked bad for the Americans, but their scout, Kit Carson, snuck through enemy lines to San Diego and was able to bring back help.
Twenty minutes away, Carlsbad offers a truly unique experience at the Flower Fields – 50 acres of colorful commercially grown Giant Tecolote Ranunculus flowers. From March to mid-May, there are millions of blossoms at the height of color. Only 1 to 2 percent of the flowers are good enough to be cut for floral shops, the rest are just by-product. But what a by-product, and what an idea to plant them on a hill and let you walk through the blaze of color. It costs $9, but the experience is worth every dime of the tab. There are 16 different colors, as well as a rose garden and all sorts of special events and kids activities.
Further up the coast
Nearby Oceanside is home to the pretty Mission San Luis Rey. Known as the “king of the missions,” it was begun in 1798 and by 1830 it was the largest building in California. There’s a small museum and nice grounds, but if you only have the interest or time to visit one mission, make it the Mission San Juan Capistrano. Beyond the famous swallows that return every year, this is one incredibly beautiful and peaceful place with gardens and fountains that rival any in the country. Admission price includes an audio tour that tells the story. The great stone church built here in 1797 collapsed in an earthquake in 1812, killing 42 Indian worshippers. It is still in ruins. The surrounding town is also worth a journey with fun restaurants in a funky historic district around the railroad station.
Just 10 minutes away is beautiful Dana Point with the Ocean Institute and two tall-masted sailing ships. The Brig Pilgrim is a full-size replica of the hide brig on which Richard Henry Dana, Jr. sailed and chronicled in his classic, Two Years Before the Mast, one of the greatest sailing books ever written. It took 120 days to sail here from Boston to take on a shipload of cowhides for the shoe factories in Massachusetts.
