Heavenly Helena
Story and photos by Dawna L. Robertson
When Helena’s mining and land barons tagged their boomtown “The Queen of the Rockies” in the 19th century, they fully expected it to rule the west for generations to come. While Denver may have trumped it in size and scale, those visiting Montana’s state capitol town of 50,000 may quickly find her reigning as queen of their hearts.
As a fan of long summer days, I fell into that group. I noticed the first hint of dawn just before 5 a.m., with darkness finally draping around 10 p.m. So that means plenty of time to take in all the fine summer recreation this southwest Montana wonderland offers.
Helena takes full advantage of it with a slew of summer events like Alive@Five, a weekly community gathering each Wednesday through September. Says Mike Mergenthaler, vice president of the Helena Area Chamber of Commerce: “We have millions of acres of public lands and water surrounding the city. It's full of
history, art and culture. So anyone visiting the Capitol City will find that there's something here for everyone.”
For runners and riders, there’s also the Montana Governor’s Cup held each year the first weekend in June. I can personally vouch for this 10K as being a scenic route that should be tackled gently by those runners who fly into town for the event but aren’t acclimated to the elevation.
Long days and seasonal events aside, I also appreciated how downtown Helena is as friendly as the folks who live there. It’s a breeze to navigate, partially because it’s small. But it’s also void of buildings higher than seven stories high. So I could chart my course by using the landmark Fire Tower and Mount Helena City Park as compass guides.
The National-Registered park also brings recreation right to town with hiking and mountain biking trails scattered across 630 acres – many of which reach from the base of the mountain to its peak 1,000 feet above downtown.
To get my bearings, I hopped aboard the Last Chance Tour Train. The one-hour narrated jaunt meanders past historical sites like Reeder’s Alley with its Pioneer Cabin, opulent homes of the Mansion District, original and current Governor’s Mansions and the Cathedral of St. Helena.
The train runs from June through September. It departs from the Montana Historical Society's Montana’s Museum, best known for its Montana Homeland exhibit showcasing a mother lode of artifacts from 11,000 years of life in the region. It also homes a stellar collection of Charles M. Russell’s western paintings and sculptures that’s heralded as one of the finest in the nation.
And just across the street is the Montana State Capitol. Dedicated in 1902 and restored a century later, this stately neoclassical structure shines with western art, classical architecture and an imposing Russell mural portraying the Salish Indians’ welcome of the Lewis and Clark Expedition in 1805.
Getting out of town
I couldn’t imagine visiting Montana without attempting its iconic art of fly-fishing. No doubt I envisioned pulling a poetic move or two a la Brad Pitt in A River Runs Through It. While that was far from the case, I am definitely hooked on this sport.
I set out with Garry Stocker, owner of Big Sky Expeditions and outfitter Montana Fly Goods Company. With unyielding patience that may only be surpassed by his extensive knowledge and skill, Stocker had me casting and mending in no time flat. While I never quite hauled in any of my strikes, I found that day on the beautiful Missouri River to be one I’ll definitely try to relive.
For those into discovering the beauty of this “Gold West Country” in one of the most scenic and sedate manners possible, Gates of the Mountains glides along the Missouri in the Rockies’ foothills just north of Helena. Named by explorer Meriwether Lewis in 1805 for the illusion of its steep limestone cliffs opening as you travel toward them, the dramatic waterway is unveiled during 105-minute narrated excursions between late May and late September.
Staying there: While you won’t find a Four Seasons, St. Regis, Hyatt or Hilton in the mix, Helena’s accommodations definitely complement the tone of the town in 16 hotels with a total of 1,500 rooms. The 101-room Best Western Helena in the new Great Northern Town Center District takes honors as the city's largest and newest property.
Located smack dab in the heart of town on the Historic Downtown Walking Mall is the 71-room Holiday Inn Downtown Helena. Gaining a local following for its new Quarry Bar & Grille, this ultra-convenient property is just steps from 17 restaurants and Pioneer Park.
More info: Visit the Helena Area Chamber of Commerce Convention and Visitors Bureau at www.GoHelena.com and Gold West Country at
