Ningaloo Reef Romp
Western Australia’s Coral Coast is a Whale Shark Wonderland
By Dawna L. Robertson
Perth skyline from the Swan River. Photo by Dawna L. Robertson.
On a recent visit to Western Australia, I was eager to explore what this remote region offered beyond the friendly city of Perth. Certainly, Perth is reason enough to visit since it’s so rich with history and culture. It’s also the springboard to an aquatic paradise known as the Coral Coast – home of the largest fringing reefs in the world that are accessible simply by stepping off the beach.
Always eager to pursue ocean action beyond the norm, I decided to get out of town to see how the less-traveled area sized up to more celebrated diving sites I’d explored in the past. I wasn’t disappointed.
A one-hour-forty-five-minute Skywest flight took me to Exmouth, the northern post of the Coral Coast that stretches 790 miles south to Cervantes. It’s here that visitors witness what West Aussies are famous for – enjoying the sun, surf and a relaxed way of life.
The North West Cape is actually one of the few places in Australia that can boast the "range to reef" experience, with rugged Cape Range National Park offsetting Ningaloo Reef Marine Park at Coral Bay. Thriving with marine life, remarkable coral formations and deserted pristine coastlines, the Indian Ocean site is a staggering contrast to the rugged terrain of the Australian Outback that lies just above.
It was here that I took off for a whale of an adventure, literally. Teeming with tropical fish, dolphins, sea lions, manta rays, sea turtles, dugongs and seasonal humpbacks, Ningaloo’s greatest claim to fame is the opportunity to swim with the world’s largest fish – the majestic Whale Shark.
In fact, Ningaloo is one of the most reliable places in the world to view these gentle giants between April and June each year. Measuring up to 60 feet in length, the speckled filter feeders gravitate here to graze in plankton-rich waters. They glide just beneath the surface, making interaction very likely for those on organized treks.
Having long heard the hype about swimming with Whale Sharks, I opted for an outing with Coral Bay Adventures, a family-owned business that’s one of a trio operating from Coral Bay. Fitted with sun protected wet suits and snorkeling gear, our group of 17 took off aboard a 52-foot vessel for a full-day introductory snorkel and ultimate Whale Shark swim. The boat was spacious, with a large shaded deck area and plenty of cushioned seating – which is a necessity since the journey requires time and patience.
With a detailed orientation and an hour of cruising under our belt, we finally dove in for a half-hour of snorkeling filled with nautical eye candy quite different than anything I’d ever viewed. While the marine life seemed familiar, the pristine hard coral resembled a beautiful aquatic field of swirling and whirling sculptures.
Then we were off to bigger and better things. Fortunately, the search wasn’t as much of a needle-in-the-haystack approach as I’d anticipated. While we were snorkeling, a spotter plane was searching for our dotted mark so we could head directly toward its location. We were in luck. So anticipation skyrocketed.
Jessamy, our dive leader, had already set the ground rules. We broke into two groups and were to remain ready to enter the water at all times. And we were required to snorkel at least three meters away from the body and four meters from the tail.
She reminded us that despite the confusing moniker, they are sharks, not whales. “They’re filter-feeders and pose no immediate threat to humans,” she explained. “But remember they’re very large and powerful, and should be treated with respect.”
Those concerned about safety shouldn’t be. A company swimmer is in the water throughout the encounter, and only 10 people are in the water with the whale shark at one time.
Sadly the most significant threat to the endangered whale shark is human activity. So operators are extremely conscientious about educating their passengers on what’s being done to protect them.
A diver sizes up the world’s largest fish. Photo by Coral Bay Adventures.
Seesawing between anxiousness and eagerness, we finally got the green light to head in. Jessamy led the group to our docil target, where amazement and awe displaced every other emotion. There we were in the Indian Ocean, swimming with the magnificent whale shark. And Amanda, our dive photographer, was capturing all the action so we could relive it again later.
The experience was surreal. It really put things in perspective – how I felt I measured up more to the plankton than the massive creature. The laid-back leviathan just went about his business, unaware that his mundane day-to-day routine was nothing short of thrilling to the squad of humans floundering around him.
On our return trip, we had ample time to share dive stories over a hearty buffet lunch. But we were frequently – and pleasantly – interrupted as sea turtles, dolphins and humpbacks put on shows of their own. I actually lost count of how many humpbacks we spotted, synchronized swimming as if they wanted to remind us that there’s more than one type of “whale” in these waters.
While I could have chalked this up to being a once in a lifetime adventure, the pure excitement wouldn’t let me. I was determined to return to the Coral Coast someday and do it all over again.
RESOURCES
Coral Bay Adventures: www.coralbayadventures.com.au
Whale Shark Adventure: Includes buffet lunch, beverages, gear, instruction and free photo CD
$330 for divers, $210 for observers
Additional Seasonal Excursions/Rates Include: Manta Ray Adventure - $145, Wildlife Adventure - $170, Humpback Whale Adventure - $100, Snorkeling Tours – from $30
All per person rates are in US Dollars and fluctuate with the current exchange rate.
HOW TO GET THERE
From U.S. West Coast to Australia: Qantas Airlines - www.qantas.com.au; V Australia – www.vaustralia.com
Within Australia: Skywest Airlines – www.skywest.com.au
WHERE TO STAY
Broadwater Norcape Lodge Exmouth (opening 2010): www.broadwaters.com.au
Ningaloo Reef Resort: www.ningalooreefresort.com.au
Novotel Ningaloo Resort Exmouth: www.novotelningaloo.com.au
Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef: www.salsalis.com.au
MORE DETAILS
Australia’s Coral Coast: www.australiascoralcoast.com
Tourism Western Australia: www.westernaustralia.com
